My slice of heaven…

You know when you find the place that speaks to your heart; where all the elements come together to create your perfect slice of heaven. It’s different for all of us of course, but for me the ingredients are heat, the sea, tranquility, exoticism, great food and good conversation…

I’m not sure why it took me so long to find Greece. I knew all about it of course and the pictures always looked so marvelous that I wondered if the real thing could ever live up to the hype.

Then a lovely friend invited me to stay at her house on Hydra (Ydra).

Ah, where to begin to describe it!

I had no idea as the ferry entered the harbor that this tiny island would take such a hold of my heart. Now, I’ll be very honest and admit that I haven’t been to any other Greek Islands and I’m sure they’re all very beautiful in their own special ways; but it’s a bit like falling in love – there are many other people that you could fall in love with but once in that state, you simply stop looking.

The first thing that strikes you about Hydra is the absence of traffic – there are no cars, bikes or wheels of any kind… just mules, donkeys and horses carrying suitcases, people and shopping, building materials, fridges – in fact everything that needs to be moved.

Patiently waiting at the port

It’s quite unique in my experience and the perfect balm for a jaded city dweller; those of us exhausted by the hectic pace of our lives, filled with traffic, noise, trains, buses and queues… argghhh.

All of this replaced by a gentle light, a sea of astonishing blues, a sun so bright and a pace so relaxed… what not to fall in love with.

Blue doors and the entrance to the most romantic restaurant on the island!

And the cats! Don’t come to Hydra if you don’t like cats because they rule this tiny island. I’m not sure if anyone has ever succeeded in counting them but there must be 5 cats at least for every human, mule and tourist on the island. They are to be found waiting by fishing boats at the port, sleeping on café chairs, lurking under tables in every restaurant for a morsel of fish or calamari …

Did I say tourist? Yes, there are plenty of tourists on Hydra in summer but it’s too small for cruise ships so it’s mostly day trippers from Athens, or travelers staying a few nights en-route for other islands. During the season it just feels like a big happy summer party.

This is an island that inspires creativity, and many artists, writers and musicians have spent time on Hydra. Leonard Cohen loved it and spent many summers here – I heard many fans asking for directions to his house during my stays. I think the Island must be very sad now to have lost such a beloved ‘local’.

Where to eat (and I’m only mentioning a handful of my favourites):

Veranda Restaurant for the Spaghetti with Lobster and beautiful views – the perfect place for a romantic dinner

Ostria Restaurant – delicious home style Greek cooking for any night of the week – try the baked peppers stuffed with feta!

To Pefkaki – stumble across this lovely Taverna on your way back from a swim and enjoy the fresh fish and gorgeous view

The Pirate Bar –the best place in the port for people watching with a Frappe Latte or a wonderful Moussaka if you’re lucky enough to be there on the right day…

Hydroneta – a gorgeous little bar clinging to the cliffs and a wonderful place for swimming, eating and drinking

The Cool Mule – for the best gelato on the Island.

A few of my favourite beaches:

Castello – below the lovely Castello restaurant is a small beach – grab a sunbed and order a delicious lunch here between swims

Vlikhos – lovely pebbled beach, a 2 km walk or water taxi ride from the port, again with a delicious restaurant!

Agios Nikolaos – a very beautiful but remote beach. Don’t believe people who say you can walk here as the track is not clearly marked (I learned from experience). Take my advice and catch a water taxi so you get to enjoy as much time here as possible away from the crowds.

Also:

Harriet’s Hydra Horses – trek to one of Hydra’s Monasteries or remoter beaches on horse/mule back. We took a rather hair raising ride up to the last inhabited nunnery on the Island, (the name of which I can’t recall) – well worth it for the sensational views